Sunday, 1 July 2012

Bolivia: the good, the bad & the ugly

The Good

Los Bolivianos: Bolivians from the highlands come across as proud and aloof. They are happy to chat to you if you initiate conversation but there’s rarely the hard-sell or clamour to get your attention in the markets. I like that.


The Diminutive: Bolivian Spanish sounds particularly cute and cuddly due to their love of the diminutive. A boliviano becomes a bolivianito; pan, pancito; almuerzo almorcito. I also love that everyone is either mamita or papi!


Resourcefulness: as in many poorer countries, the throw-away mentality does not exist in Bolivia. Down the road from our hostel is a small shop where an old man sits all day repairing soccer balls. People make sandals out of old car tires. The kinds of televisions put out on the nature strip for hard rubbish in Australia are brought to the electrician here and lovingly repaired.


The Bad

Rubbish: fair enough, the country probably has bigger things to worry about but waste disposal needs some serious work. As if the city centre wasn’t bad enough, on the outskirts of every village and town is a huge unchecked pile of rubbish, unceremoniously dumped by the roadside. If you’re really unlucky you’ll find yourself in the middle of a toxic cloud of smoke as plastic bags and bottles are set alight.


Driving: where do I start? Drivers in Bolivia are spectacularly bad- they don’t signal, they run red lights (all the while honking furiously to alert oncoming vehicles with right of way to get the hell out of the way), they take corners at mind boggling speed with double the regulation amount of passengers on board, they even rival Australians for drink-driving culture.


Electric Showers: sort of for the tepid (at best) water they produce; mainly for the exposed wires and constant fear of electrocution.


The Ugly

The giant public urinal: nobody in Bolivia has any qualms about dropping their pants and pissing (or worse) in the street. And not just in some discreet side street, no, for a conservative country they aren’t shy about public urination. The result is that great swathes of the city stink like piss. Nasty.


Expectoration: it’s worrying when all public buses have stickers asking people not to spit. Would they otherwise just hock one up on the bus?? Probably. Listening to people hawk, hack and hock up parts of their lungs is one of my least favourite aspects of Bolivian life.

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