We heart Colombia

Even though we’ve only been in the country for two weeks, Colombia is already looking like becoming the South American favourite. The countryside is ridiculously beautiful. The first towns we stopped in- Popayan & San Agustin- are surrounded by intensely green, lush hills and covered in coffee, banana, pineapple, papaya, citrus and cornfields. And it’s so clean!!! After the depressing amount of rubbish heaped by the side of the road and at the exit of every town in Bolivia and Peru, Colombia seems pristine.

In Popayan we hired bikes with Tom and Jason (from Lennox Street Richmond…small world) and got a ride out to Coconuco, some thermal baths about 30km from the city. The baths were slightly average, made worse by the presence of a creepy local who befriended us, but cycling through the country was beautiful.

 

 In San Agustin we upgraded to a dirt bike and coasted around the incredibly dicey narrow tracks, purpose built for donkeys rather than vehicles. The town is famous for the archaeological sites nearby but the scenery is far more impressive.

 

 Purple, pink and red bougainvillea, bright pink, enormous hibiscus and velvety soft flouro orange flowers break up the patchwork green vistas. Humming birds and butterflies complete the bucolic picture.

 

 A few people had told us the food in Colombia was crap, but maybe they hadn’t travelled Bolivia for three months. In addition to the standard chicken/beef and rice combo, we now have (gasp) salad!!! And beans!! Colombia must also have the widest range of fruit on earth- in addition to pineapple, mango, strawberries, papaya and the other usual suspects, there is also pithaya (a bit like dragon fruit); the famous lulo, which makes a seriously kickass juice; borojo (amazing in a smoothie with milk); tomate del arbol (tamarillo- also makes a surprisingly yummy juice) and more that we still have to try.

 And the people are so friendly!! In Popayan we were accosted as we walked to the supermarket and forced to drink several shots of aguardiente with some locals. I asked a woman for directions on the street and she walked us halfway over the city to show us where to go. Much as I admire the aloof, stoic highlanders of Bolivia and Peru, it’s nice to be in a country where the people actually want to chat with you.