A belated ode to Isla Ometepe

"Out of the midst of Lake Nicaragua spring two magnificent pyramids, clad in the softest and richest green, all flecked with shadow and sunshine, whose summits pierce the billowy clouds. They look so isolated from the world and its turmoil- so tranquil, so dreamy, so steeped in slumber and eternal repose...These mountains seem to have no level ground at their base but rise abruptly from the water...When not a cloud is visible elsewhere in the heavens, their tall summits are magnificently draped in them"

Mark Twain, 1867

The island of Ometepe is one of Nicaragua's most beautiful sights, so it seemed a bit unfair not to give it a bit of airtime (especially in light of how many paragraphs have been devoted to rum consumption).

Maderas at sunset

The island consists of the twin volcanic peaks of Concepcion and Maderas- the former a perfect cone reaching 1610m and still (very) active; the latter is extinct, 1394m high and covered in thick forest.

View of Concepcion from the rickety lancha

 The only way to get to Ometepe is by boat, namely lanchas of questionable seaworthiness. Because of its size, Lake Nicaragua is prone to fairly heavy swells, which made the boat sway dangerously from side to side, with huge amounts of water coming in over the bottom deck with every lurch.

I hope Leontien has forgiven us for making her get on board. If you look behind the nervous smile you'll see the glint of real terror in her eyes!! Probably not the best sea-going experience for someone with a bit of boat-phobia.