After working for a Latin American travel company for five years, I had assumed I was in the know about most of the highlights, at least in passing. Maybe that's why Semuc Champey was so impressive- I had absolutely no idea that it even existed, let alone any expectations or preconceptions.
After a quick squiz at a country map, we had originally planned to stop off in Coban as a logical pitstop between Tikal and Huehuetenango. Luckily we ran into a German guy we keep bumping into who recommended we stay in Lanquin instead at Zephyr Lodge.
Arriving at the lodge after a hot, bumpy 8 hour ride, we were thrilled to see that he had been right on the money. The lodge itself clings to the side of a hill and has awesome views up and down the valley. Showers face west and have one virtually open wall so you could admire sunset whilst washing off the filth from the bus ride. The bar/restaurant runs on a tab system which is both a wonderfully easy and hideously dangerous way to part with cash.
Lionel Richie supposedly stayed at the lodge a few years back, so there was quite a lot of random Richie memorabilia, and nightly 'All Night Long' singalongs (which after four hours of happy hour always seems like a good idea).
The area's biggest attraction is Semuc Champey, which sounds like a bit of a mouthful until you hear the English translation of the Mayan Q'eqchi name: where the river hides beneath the earth.
The series of turquoise pools are fed by crystal springs and form a natural bridge under which the Cahabon River roars. Surrounded by dense jungle, the scene is nothing short of magical...truly one of the most beautiful places I have ever been.
The pools natural formations and position in a steep valley make for some fun jumps, climbs and slides. We were happy to have paid for a guide who made jumping off bridges, trees and cliffs into the pools seem like a good idea.
Martijn about to leap 15m to the pool below |
Once again we lucked out a very cool group of people on our tour, who we then spent the next few days floating & drinking with.
On our second day we opted for something a little more laid-back. Not sure tubing really counts as an activity, particularly considering all the beers that floated along with us. Nevertheless, it was heaps of fun!!
Virtually the only downside to the four days we spent at Zephyr was the moment of truth when the time came to pay the bill. To make matters even worse, it was itemized so we couldn't even fool ourselves about what the vast majority of cash had been spent on. Cerveza, cerveza, cerveza, cerveza, margarita, pizza, cerveza, cerveza, breakfast burrito, coffee, cerveza.....and so on and so forth. Damn you tab system!! Damn you!!
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